Paint and rust removal process.

[kev100]

TTB
i fitted the boot lid hinges and boot lid tonight, the boot lid will not stay up on its own. I think I have the same problem as you had when you rebuilt yours.
did you replace the 2 long torsion type springs???

IMG_2613.jpg

I noticed mine have lost some tension (not sure thats the right term to explain it) .. since it was dipped (I left the hinges in place), not sure if the acid has interfered with the mechanism (doing an acid version of rusting up), and it just needs taking apart and cleaning, or if the acid dissolved something that was tensioning the springs, not looked into greatly as its not a priority at the moment

[DJT]

Old thread with links to pictures posted by RogerP:

https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/soc-forum/11079-boot-lid-springs?10794-Boot-Lid-Springs=&hig

[paul jorgensen]

Thanks DJT much appreciated, I have screen shot the pictures and have put it on my list of jobs to complete

[paul jorgensen]

Hi DJT
i nipped into my garage this morning and looked at the boot lid hinges. I took photos of what I found..
L/h hinge the arm that holds the disc is pushed against the hinge as it should, the R/h hinge the same arm is hanging down which points to the torsion type spring loosing it tension.
think the both need replacing.?

[DJT]

Hi DJT
i nipped into my garage this morning and looked at the boot lid hinges. I took photos of what I found..
L/h hinge the arm that holds the disc is pushed against the hinge as it should, the R/h hinge the same arm is hanging down which points to the torsion type spring loosing it tension.
think the both need replacing.?

It looks as if something is not right, although the rollers look to be in good condition. Fortunately I have not had to explore this area too much, apart from removing and replacing boot lid and tonneau lid. I suggest you refer to ROM 76.19.01/07/08 and compare with what you have.

[paul jorgensen]

I have just looked and all seems to be in place as per the picture.
last year TTB asked me on this thread if I had any issues with the boot lid springs, he said his had lost their tension after being put into an oven at 400*c to burn off the paint.
i think mine have probably done the same.

[gbb483]

Or, in metalwork parlance, they've become annealed.

[paul jorgensen]

Ahh yes… they have been softened!!!

[paul jorgensen]

After 2 weeks of knocking our new house about I managed to get onto my car and do a bit more. I managed to fit a couple of the newly plated parts I had done.

The clutch fluid reservoir was a doddle to fit while the bonnet stay was a pain. For some reason the stay would not slide through the slot, I had to file the slot to make it slid easily, unfortunately some of the paint scraped off when I first tried the stay.
it was nice to fit some chrome.

[paul jorgensen]

I rebuilt and fitted the rear lights today. These are them with the side lights on. When I checked the lights the indicators did not work at all and when the brakes were applied the o/s illuminated but the n/s side there were no lights. Take the brake off and Both side lights came on.
i spent a couple of hours trying to find the cause, I traced the indicator fault to the indicator switch so I have ordered a new one.
any thoughts on the stop/tail light issue I have?

[kev100]

Weird issue's with lights like that are usually a bad Earth, so first check the Earths

[paul jorgensen]

That was always my thought, I had to screw new spade terminals into the light bases as the chrome plating process loosened the originals. Unfortunately that didn’t cure it. Will try a fly lead to a good earth and see what that does.

just a thought…… would the night dimming relay have anything to do with it??????

[paul jorgensen]

I fitted the new indicator switch tonight, The o/s indicator now works but the n/s doesn’t …. Aaaagh
The stop/tail light issue I think I have narrowed it down to one of the bulb holders, I have ordered a new one so fingers crossed.
The issue with the indicators is puzzling.

[kev100]

Hi Paul,

Quick question,

When you took the car back to Surface processing for the ecoat, I think they dip it again first to get rid of any contamination and surface rust that appears while repairing, I noticed in your photo's you had a lot of lead loading in the seams, did the second dip cause any issue's with the lead.

I noticed on mine after the first dip that the lead has deformed and run, so clearly a reaction.

Just trying to think if it's best to try sort the seams before the ecoat or after, before is clearly better.

[paul jorgensen]

Hi Kev,

if I remember correctly the lead loading was not effected by the 2nd dip, I think the heating up process to remove the paint in the first dip melted the lead.